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#21 ·
Rambler. You fish rivers. Fish bandit 200 series crankbaits for smallmouth. Change speeds and maintain contact with the bottom. They are rated for 4-8' if you run them faster but you don't need to (I run them anywhere from 1' to 6'), deeper then that I go with 8-12' rated cranks. Some of these cranks folks mention don't run deep enough to maintain contact to move the choice smallies. You could thank me in the summer.

Not my absolute favorite colors but they are on sale at Cabelas now for 2.99....I picked up a few more. Mimic either crawfish or bait fish colors.

Bandit 200 Series SB 16 Crankbait
SIZE: 1/4 OZ. | COLOR: GOLD SPARKLE | ITEM: IK - 138306
x 1 $2.99
Bandit 200 Series SB 16 Crankbait
SIZE: 1/4 OZ. | COLOR: COPPER TIGER | ITEM: IK - 138306
x 1 $2.99
Bandit 200 Series SB 16 Crankbait
SIZE: 1/4 OZ. | COLOR: CANARY | ITEM: IK - 138306
x 2 $5.98

While your at it pick up a Prestige Plus fly reel. They discontinued the old model and have a new model. New model is lighter but for $19.99 deep discount price who cares. The 3-4wt or 5-6wt are plenty fine reels.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/fishing/ ... type%3DGNU
 
#22 ·
There are so many out there now, many places are making their own line. Pretty cheap. You might have to change some trebles or split rings, but for $4-$6 bucks, instead of $10-$15, its an alternative.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Hey Ski - not sure whether to feel complimented or very, very afraid :wink: that you know my fishing habits. Looks like I'll be making a Cabelas pilgrimage soon. Works good since I've got some club points to burn.

As for the fly reel I bought a new old stock Cortland Vista 7/8 from a fly shop in AR via eBay and also picked up a spare spool for my old Pflueger Medalist on eBay so I'm all set on that score. But while I'm at Cabelas I'll probably pick up some flies, leaders, etc.

Thanks! And thanks to everyone else for the help.
 
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#24 ·
Probably the best crank i have ever used for actual river fishing though if thats what your primary target will be is a flicker shad in chrome/black. It deflects similar to a square bill and has a tight flickering wobble that drive fish crazy. My second choice for river cranks is the large rebel craw in brown with orange belly. Both are designed to dive 8ft but that doesnt hold true in water with current. IME take the depth of the crankbait and cut it in half in moderate to heavier current. Both of those cranks are king on the kankakee in my opinion.
 
#25 ·
WetWader said:
Hard bottom areas i prefer the Arashi squarebills. They hunt better around rocks and hard bottom in my opinion. As for areas with possible grass or weed mixed in to the bottom i would suggest the KVD's or Lucky Craft's. The KVD's are much cheaper then the LC's though which is why i usually buy those. The KVD's have a higher bouyancy factor from what i have seen so i also like them better around wood that i'm banging off of. Hope this helps.
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I only have Arashi but that's because I had no square bills and liked their "tuneless" design. One order did me for 3' and 5' diving cranks so now I prohibit myself from buying more.
 
#26 ·
I usually fish kvd or sixth sense 50x, go to colors are bluegill around here. I've found the 6th sense lures to last a long time and catch tons of fish. With that being said I always change out the hooks on them.
 
#27 ·
FISHdank said:
Manns -1 have always been a fav of mine, bill is not necessarily square but definitely a bait i always keep close by.
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One of my favorite lures, as well. I don't toss lures often, but when I do, a -1 is one of my top choices.
 
#28 ·
no one has mentioned it… two of your three haunts are rivers… look into getting a Diawa Peanut. Ghost Olive color is pretty hot color for this area. They can be hard to find, but I believe Cabelas might actually carry these.

also no one mentioned any bait that is not plastic, and that does not rattle! (evil for shallow cranking if you'd ask me). Look into Bagley Balsa baits B2 and B3's.

just my 2 cents

-JayPee
 
#29 ·
jaypee the hhf said:
no one has mentioned it… two of your three haunts are rivers… look into getting a Diawa Peanut. Ghost Olive color is pretty hot color for this area. They can be hard to find, but I believe Cabelas might actually carry these.

-JayPee
Click to expand...
Yup! My favorite river smallie crank hands down. They take a beating, they don't roll over in current, and most importantly they catch fish. You will want to replace the stock trebles however. They are hard to find these days, like jaypee said.
 
#30 ·
Jaypee does bring up a good suggestion. I've looked for those and I think you'll be hard pressed to even find them at cabelas. I think you can still find them online tho. Ebay? Not sure why they are out there...they work well!
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Bringme - which store?
 
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#36 ·
busse bass man said:
polishfly said:
Squarebill and Lipless was the ticket today!
Click to expand...
Unfortunately not for me and I threw both in my arsenal today. I don't think I'm going back to the goons for a little. Looks like you guys had a good day though.
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I think a lot of people suffered the same fate as you my friend, myself included. When the water temps come up a bit, cranks are gonna be hard to beat, save for maybe spinnerbaits if the waters dirtier. Gotta get out when you can though!
 
#37 ·
J.W. said:
I think a lot of people suffered the same fate as you my friend, myself included. When the water temps come up a bit, cranks are gonna be hard to beat, save for maybe spinnerbaits if the waters dirtier. Gotta get out when you can though!
Click to expand...
Yea I normally fair pretty well at the goons but not yesterday. Threw square bills,lipless,spinners, and chatterbaits. They weren't having any of it. Just 1 of those days I guess.
 
#38 ·
Purchase a mix of balsa and plastic baits. A few colors (bluegill, shad, crayfish, and brighter colors), sizes (1.0, 1.5, 2.5), rattling or non-rattling, and depths (wake to 5ft or so...) will do. Depth is the most important factor, period.
For me, in clearer water or calmer conditions, a bluegill pattern is tough to beat, and in stained to dirtier water, I go with white or a brighter patterns (contrasting colors are a plus, too).
Day in and day out, the most productive size will be the 1.5, but the 2.5 is a tournament winner (match the hatch).
The last few years a non-rattling crank has out-produced a rattling version, hands down, for me.
Balsa has its benefits, as does plastic. As a whole, balsa tends to wobble more and plastic usually wiggles more (not a rule but generally true- cold water= wiggle, warm water= wobble). I like balsa on pressured water, around grass and wood because it is typically more buoyant than plastic, and in many cold water scenarios. Plastic is more efficient around rip-rap, boulders, bridge pilings, and in some grass/wood situations. Balsa will get torn up around harder cover/structure, especially when cranked at a good clip. I cringe at the thought of ruining a "keeper" balsa crank, as they aren't all created equal, and good plastic baits are way easier to come by...
Once again, depth is the key. If you're not very near cover or deflecting/ripping off of cover, your catch rates will be significantly less. The "wrong" color, the "wrong" size, etc, worked at the correct depth and effectively around cover, will out-fish the "right" color and "right" size at the wrong depth, any day.
One final note, line size/type can absolutely change the way a crank runs, and a crankbait specific rod is vital to deflection, as well as landing more fish, so keep that in mind.
 
#39 ·
ktinman said:
Purchase a mix of balsa and plastic baits. A few colors (bluegill, shad, crayfish, and brighter colors), sizes (1.0, 1.5, 2.5), rattling or non-rattling, and depths (wake to 5ft or so...) will do. Depth is the most important factor, period.
For me, in clearer water or calmer conditions, a bluegill pattern is tough to beat, and in stained to dirtier water, I go with white or a brighter patterns (contrasting colors are a plus, too).
Day in and day out, the most productive size will be the 1.5, but the 2.5 is a tournament winner (match the hatch).
The last few years a non-rattling crank has out-produced a rattling version, hands down, for me.
Balsa has its benefits, as does plastic. As a whole, balsa tends to wobble more and plastic usually wiggles more (not a rule but generally true- cold water= wiggle, warm water= wobble). I like balsa on pressured water, around grass and wood because it is typically more buoyant than plastic, and in many cold water scenarios. Plastic is more efficient around rip-rap, boulders, bridge pilings, and in some grass/wood situations. Balsa will get torn up around harder cover/structure, especially when cranked at a good clip. I cringe at the thought of ruining a "keeper" balsa crank, as they aren't all created equal, and good plastic baits are way easier to come by...
Once again, depth is the key. If you're not very near cover or deflecting/ripping off of cover, your catch rates will be significantly less. The "wrong" color, the "wrong" size, etc, worked at the correct depth and effectively around cover, will out-fish the "right" color and "right" size at the wrong depth, any day.
One final note, line size/type can absolutely change the way a crank runs, and a crankbait specific rod is vital to deflection, as well as landing more fish, so keep that in mind.
Click to expand...
Hell of a first post, great info!
 
#40 ·
ktinman said:
Purchase a mix of balsa and plastic baits. A few colors (bluegill, shad, crayfish, and brighter colors), sizes (1.0, 1.5, 2.5), rattling or non-rattling, and depths (wake to 5ft or so...) will do. Depth is the most important factor, period.
For me, in clearer water or calmer conditions, a bluegill pattern is tough to beat, and in stained to dirtier water, I go with white or a brighter patterns (contrasting colors are a plus, too).
Day in and day out, the most productive size will be the 1.5, but the 2.5 is a tournament winner (match the hatch).
The last few years a non-rattling crank has out-produced a rattling version, hands down, for me.
Balsa has its benefits, as does plastic. As a whole, balsa tends to wobble more and plastic usually wiggles more (not a rule but generally true- cold water= wiggle, warm water= wobble). I like balsa on pressured water, around grass and wood because it is typically more buoyant than plastic, and in many cold water scenarios. Plastic is more efficient around rip-rap, boulders, bridge pilings, and in some grass/wood situations. Balsa will get torn up around harder cover/structure, especially when cranked at a good clip. I cringe at the thought of ruining a "keeper" balsa crank, as they aren't all created equal, and good plastic baits are way easier to come by...
Once again, depth is the key. If you're not very near cover or deflecting/ripping off of cover, your catch rates will be significantly less. The "wrong" color, the "wrong" size, etc, worked at the correct depth and effectively around cover, will out-fish the "right" color and "right" size at the wrong depth, any day.
One final note, line size/type can absolutely change the way a crank runs, and a crankbait specific rod is vital to deflection, as well as landing more fish, so keep that in mind.
Click to expand...
Excellent.
 
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polishfly
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