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Discussion starter · #21 ·
What I've noticed using the cheaper lines vs the higher end lines is the period of degradation. My cheap lines wear out quick!

I do agree, though, user error is a cause also. I always try my best to eliminate all the variables I can control; right rod, reel, line, etc. That way if something
does go wrong, I can chalk it up to it just wasn't meant to be!
 
I've never done mono backing before, but I can see if definitely saving a lot of money by doing so. This year I might try mono backing on all my reels. What line do you guys find effective for joining the two lines?
 
Afalconsvick said:
I've never done mono backing before, but I can see if definitely saving a lot of money by doing so. This year I might try mono backing on all my reels. What line do you guys find effective for joining the two lines?
Uni-uni, blood, albright are all easy and effective under most but not all instances, but, they all have 1 trait that I cant stand and that is the tag end. Can be a real nuisance having that "spikey" end catching on line spooled over the top of it.

The following is how I spool my crankbait reels.(I say my crankbait reels, because its about the only setup I use where the full length of fluoro/mono between my reel and lure, all my other setups are braid to 6'-12' fluoro leader).
Anyway, bottom 1/3 of spool gets whatever cheap bulk mono I have laying around. Next, I spool up most of the way with braid. The connection here is relatively unimportant because unless something goes majorly wrong, it will never see the light of day. Next, I spool on about 2 casts of whatever fluoro you want to use. If your prone to backlashes, or more than occasionally lose a lengths of line, make it 3 casts worth. The key here is using a connection knot that doesnt affect or catch on the line spooled over it, and will cast seamlessly thru the reel/guides if needed. That knot would be the "FG" knot. When tied properly, there is no tag end to the fluoro to catch on overlying layers. You can take a lighter and melt the end of the fluoro, and pinch it down to a hair-like diameter, before finishing the knot.
Although the initial setup is a little complex, it leads to ultimate simplicity thereafter, the beauty is once its done it will last several years, and it greatly minimizes wasted line and time re-spooling, all you ever have to change out is the top 2 casts worth of line. It can be done on the water in about 5 minutes if needed. Also, it lends itself to greater versatility on an outing to outing basis. Can turn a dropshotting reel into a flipping reel in a couple minutes, with little wasted line. The reason for the braid under the topshot is 2-fold. 1- braid lasts for several years especially in a filler role, 2- the braid/fluoro connection via "FG" knot is snag free, it will not catch on line spooled over it, and will travel seamlessly through line guide, rod guides should it ever get exposed. A fluoro/mono connection is bulkier, and needs to be buried under a lot more line to not have an impact on casting. Last but not least, its about the strongest connecting knot you will ever find. Uni-uni, blood, albright wont even come close to matching it strength-wise, or smoothness through your setup. I learned it while seeking a smoother alternative for braid/fluoro connections. Many demos of it on youtube.
Is it warm out yet?
 
Afalconsvick said:
I've never done mono backing before, but I can see if definitely saving a lot of money by doing so. This year I might try mono backing on all my reels. What line do you guys find effective for joining the two lines?
Afalconsvick said:
I've never done mono backing before, but I can see if definitely saving a lot of money by doing so. This year I might try mono backing on all my reels. What line do you guys find effective for joining the two lines?
Like Cletedius, for backing I use whatever bulk mono I have laying around as long as it is the same diameter. In terms of the knot, I don't even know what it's called. I line up both tag ends, make a loop, and wrap the tag ends back twice around the main lines. I pass them back through the loop and cinch tight. This would definitely not hold any strength but I am not worried about ever getting that low in the spool. Even when I get hung up and I can't free my bait, I am only losing a few feet of line. It is a very small knot which is all I am really interested in.

On a side note, I was flipping through an old Bass and Time and they said that the Eugene, San Diego Jam, and the Uni knot had a 97% breaking strength for FC in line to lure applications. Palomar was 88.6% For line to line, they said the Albright was 71.98% and the Double Uni was 62.81%. I was really surprised by those results.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
I just tie two over hand knots to connect my bulk crap line to the good line.
I've always used palomar knot, but might give the uni knot a try. My buddy Zach uses it now and loves it. He was having some problems with the palomar.
I tie uni-uni to connect braid to fluoro for my spinning reels and haven't had that break (knock on wood) but I do know the Albright is a stronger connector knot.

I'll come back to this topic after I use the P line a bit and review my thoughts on it. I tried BassPro Fluoro once and thought it was soft and not very abrasion resistant, broke it the same day I spooled it! :evil: Might give it another whirl also.
 
Winnebasschamp said:
I just tie two over hand knots to connect my bulk crap line to the good line.
I've always used palomar knot, but might give the uni knot a try. My buddy Zach uses it now and loves it. He was having some problems with the palomar.
I tie uni-uni to connect braid to fluoro for my spinning reels and haven't had that break (knock on wood) but I do know the Albright is a stronger connector knot.

I'll come back to this topic after I use the P line a bit and review my thoughts on it. I tried BassPro Fluoro once and thought it was soft and not very abrasion resistant, broke it the same day I spooled it! :evil: Might give it another whirl also.
I was using a double uni knot with great results. The only problem is the tag ends can catch a lot of weeds. My buddy showed me a knot he called the Guide's Knot which is awesome but I've never read anything about it anywhere. I've always considered myself knot-challenged but this knot has been flawless. You run the line through the eye twice making a small loop above the eye. You wrap the tag end around the main line 4 times and then back through the loop and cinch. That is an awesome knot and I have used it in close quarters, big hookset applications and it has not failed me.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Tater said:
Little superglue will make a line connection knot super smooth.
I've never liked doing that. Always seemed to weaken the knot more than help.

Ted I'll check that knot out thanks!
 
I use a blood knot to connect the mono backing to the braid as well as the fluro leader to the braid. I can get the tag ends down to almost nothing, but not gone completely. I like the idea of burning the tag ends, but would worry about compromising the actual knot. For cutting the braid, sharp scissors are a must. IME, line clippers will often shred the braid when cutting, leaving little filaments. I don't think I have ever had a break off on the braid to mono connection. All breakoffs are on the hook end, most resulting from not retying after rubbing around structure or catching multiple fish. Even largemouth will compromise the connection after awhile, especially plastic fishing where the fish often have the hook farther inside their mouths causing constant abrasion while landing them. I have never considered glue. If I am worried about breakoff's I just up bump up on the line strengh of the fluro. Again, the biggest issue is probably retying. For me, when I am on the water I want to go, go, go, instead of taking the time to check the line for nicks and abrasions.
 
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